Jageshwar at Almora

Day 2 of our Adventure tour in Uttaranchal. We have cycled almost half the way from Kathgodam and are now a day long journey to the start of a 5 day Rafting expedition on Kali river. By sheer luck we chanced upon this Shrine on our way and asked the guide for a brief halt. We ended up spending a couple of hours on the photo shoot

Situated at an altitude of 1870mts in the heart of Uttaranchal lies this first of the 12 Jyotirlings. A short distance away from the town of Almora (37km), it is an important tourist destination for pilgrims every year. It is situated amidst thick deodar forest in the lap of nature and acts as a center for meditation. You may find fewer tourists coming here as compared to other more popular religious sites in Uttaranchal and has relatively few hotels and accommodations to offer but is definitely worth a visit considering its religious sanctity

The bylanes leading to the temple complex has a handful of shops selling religious books, idols and trinkets. Unlike some of the more popular pilgrimage sites in Uttaranchal, this has a low key tourism so you may not be hassled by beggars or ascetics as well as the local Shopkeepers.

There are 125 temples dedicated to Lord Shiva in the complex. Most of the temples enshrine a stone lingam, surrounded by stone sculptures of various deities. The cluster of temples depicts an ancient culture and design, renovated and reestablished by Adi Shankarachary while on his way to Kedarnath.

The main temples of Jageshwar include Dandeshwar Temple, Chandi-ka-Temple, Jageshwar Temple, Kuber Temple, Mritunjaya Temple, Nau Durga, Nava-grah Temple, a Pyramidal shrine, and Surya Temple. Mrityunjaya Temple is the oldest and Dandeshwar Temple is the largest shrine of Jageshwar

A Plaque outside the shrine mentions the date of its establishment and creation details, further ahead a few 100 meters away is a small Museum set up by the Archaeological Survey of India. It has displayed some precious Idols and Artifacts from the Temple vicinity herein but Photography is not permitted

  

An Ascetic in Deep Study inside the Shrine

Adalaj Vav - The Deep Waters

Legend has it that the great Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan was so much in love with his Queen that when she died, he constructed a monument equal to her beauty. And Mohammed Begda, a local King in Gujarat, glorified a Step Well as per the Wishes of his Queen.

But then while one was constructed post a Death, the other was in Life. Though not a marvel in Marble, it was still a Sandstone splendor which is why a multitude of people flocked to see it. Again this was a more a Necessity than an Extravagance, and was found in Isolation though not a Wonder of the World.  

The King was in Supreme hurry to construct this. So while the Marvel was being constructed on the Banks of a water body, this he created Above it

And equally well it became a haven for shutterbugs….

 

Bats hanging on the ceiling

Skylight view



The Tombs of the Master Craftsmen who made it happen



v  Time to visit – High Noon, best time to photo a play of shadows

v  Distance from Ahmedabad - 19km. The auto driver would charge Rs.500/ for return fare

v  Ticket – Free Entry

v  Duration – at least an hour for a good photo shoot

v  No other places of interest close by & do carry your drinking water as there are few shops in the vicinity  

The Aarti of the Ganges in Benaras

Benaras, Kashi or the modern day Varanasi, one of the oldest cities in the world, also boasts of one of the oldest existing Universities - the BHU (Banaras Hindu University) and the Kashi Vishvanath Temple (one of the 12 Sacred Jyotirlings). It has accolades coming from Mark Twain and has the Benaras Gharana of Hindustani Classical Music to its credit   

There are myriad places of interest to check out here for a visitor with its old world charm and cultural places but a must see event which comes to mind is the “Aarti” of the Ganges. It is a ritual which has been practiced here for centuries every evening on the “Dashashwamedh Ghat”, one of the 100 Ghats overlooking the Ganges.  Located close to the Kashi Vishvanath Temple, it is one of the most revered Ghats in Benaras

On Day 2 in Benaras of a week long trip we decided to see this spectacle. As we approached the Ghats, we could gauge the enormity of the event by the throngs of people moving in the direction of the Ghats. A cycle rickshaw is the best mode of travel amidst the traffic and chaos but you may have to walk it out for a few kilometers while returning to the City hub. Multiple shops enroute sell Containers to carry the scared water of the Ganges and numerous Idols of Hindu Gods and Goddesses for Worship are available.

On approaching the Ghat, we found it chock full of people already positioned on vantage points so we chose an alternate and a better mode of Observation – a boat ride. For a token fee, a Boatman will take you on a short ride up the river showing all the Ghats, post which he stations his boat offering you a prominent view of the Aarti.

The smell of Incense and flowers has filled the air. Busy vendors selling Marigold flowers and Traditional Diyas in Woven baskets mingle with the crowd doing a brisk sale. A request for a Photograph with one of them was gently rebuked, locals are very camera shy. The Aarti is to start at 6.45pm and lasts for close to an hour so we idle our time on the Boat.

As the Aarti time nears, a group of Pundits attired in bright Saffron clothing approach the dais. The dais has already been decked with all items needed for the ritual – Conch Shells, tall multi-tiered Brass Lamps, Incense and Flowers, Fans and Water Jars all neatly arranged.  Our Boatman brings us close to the dais as the event unfolds 

A long blast of Conch shells indicates the start of the Ceremony and the Ghat goes silent.  The Pundits conduct the Aarti facing the river. The sequence of events has been practiced by generations and has been handed over by ancestors so you may not find a single step being missed or a single hymn being mispronounced.

The blowing of Conch Shells is followed by a sequence of Prayers using Incense sticks. This is followed by incantation using multi-tiered Brass lamps. A large heavy lighted lamp is very easily maneuvered by the Pundits. Time and again as the huge lamps gyrate in the Pundits hands, you may feel them synchronizing to the chants of hymns and clanging of Cymbals in the background

Subsequently incantations using Horse Hair Fans and Peacock Feather Fans follow. The final offering is a Water offering to the river. The entire process meanwhile is being captured by frantic shutterbugs. The Lamps create a bright hue against the dark evening. The scent of incense and sandal has created a heady fragrance.

The event draws to a close with the Pundits offering a Water tribute to the River

A Pundit carries a tray full of flowers and a lamp amongst the devotees for Blessings.  The dark of the River is illuminated by a long string of Diya’s as they float away amidst streams of Rose and Marigold petals.

                                   

This experience has been a spiritually uplifting, something to be cherished for a long long time.