Enroute Bet Dwarka

The medieval island which is the birthplace of Lord Krishna is a must pilgrimage for a person travelling around Gujarat. Its nearness to Somnath (one of the 12 Jyotirlings) is an added advantage.

  

The new Dwarka Temple

We reached the Bet (Port of Okha) post a short visit to new Dwarka at mid noon during our 3 day whirlwind tour of Gujarat via Junagadh. Enroute to the port, you can see loads of fish being dried on the roadside on bamboo poles and the stench coming from them is heavenly. The port was crowded and getting parking space was a nightmare considering the swarm of devotees who had descended there. To reach the island, you need to hop onto a ferry. The 10 minute ride from the Okha costs you Rs. 25/. A problem here is that the ferry has to be fully loaded and so their owners make you wait in the Sun till their boat is full or you can shell out some extra cash and ensure you don’t have to wait.

 

 So other than the temple itself, Bet Dwarka has 2 other attractions; the vendors selling exquisite Sea Shells near the shores and the Sea Gulls who follow you on your boat ride.   

 You can purchase a pouch of bird feed before boarding the boat. Once the journey begins, the birds approach the boat in flocks. Their shrill cries and the flapping of wings is a site to behold. The bird keep you company till you are close to the shore and then fly off. This process is repeated when you are returning back from the temple. Often you may see a Bird plucking a feed right off a person’s hand.  

Photography of the temple is not permitted so you may have to deposit the camera in one of the several shops outside. The island has several restaurants all of them serving local fare which is best avoidable (Jalebis, Samosas etc..) or you can carry some food from the city. The Archaeological Survey of India has deployed divers to survey the ocean depths around Dwarka, though they are some distance off and you may be unable to view their catch.  

The Oldest man made lake in Bhopal

A Friends Wedding in Bhopal on Valentines day

Not sure if this was an auspicious occasion to see a lake but chance had it that we had nothing better to do till 8pm when the wedding was scheduled. So our group descened on Upper Lake to trespass on the privacy of a few couples who had come to celebrate the occasion. It was only later that we realized the historical significance of this Lake which supplies water to the better half of the city. Also known as Bada Talaab (Large Lake to coincide with a Smaller Lake nearby) the BhojTal was founded by the famed Raja Bhoj a Thousand years back and hence carries the significance of being the Oldest manmade lake in history.

Once upon a time the King suffered from a skin disease which the local Doctors were unable to cure. A Saint gave a remedy to this – he told the King to build a water tank to combine 365 tributaries and then have a dip in it. The King called upon his staff to locate such a water source and commence the work. They spotted a place near river Betwa, around 32 km away from the city but it was found to have only 359 tributaries. A local Gond Commander helped to identify an invisible river close-by which had the balance count of tributaries and thus the Water body with the relevant count of tributaries was made available to the King for his dip. The king was cured and the lake made its mark in history  

Other than the Water supply, the Lake has many distinctions. It has a huge supply of Fish and the Lake is often leased out to a cooperative of local Fishermen, though I am not sure if it also has an angling club nor could I see anyone fishing close-by. So also it boasts of a Sailing club. And it also has Boating facility wherein for a token fee you can have a long cruise and also visit a small island in the middle of the lake for a stroll.  

Likewise the Lake has become a home to huge flock of ducks (or Swans?). The ducks are fond of Popcorn and for five rupees you can purchase a handful of corn from the local vendors and feed it to them. A duck eating corn out of your hands can be a memorable picture to carry back home.

And now the Steam Engine – “The Hill Stallion” as it was known during its heydays was installed by the Bhopal Municipal Corporation on the Lake shores as a Tourist attraction. It was built by Tata Engineering Locomotive in 1963. The engine which served the Railways for 34 years used to run in North-Eastern Railways in Assam. The gleaming black Engine looks like a Knight in shining armor standing at attention on the Shores of the lake.
  

And finally a replica of the India’s 1^st stealth frigate, the INS Shivalik has been put on display here in a large glass casing.

There are a handful of small eateries close-by which serve you varied items starting from Ice-creams to local Chats 

It is said that the Lake also played a role in saving the lives of the citizens during the Union Carbide Gas Tragedy; the moisture laden lake absorbed a major portion of the affluent gas in the atmosphere and prevented its spread towards the heart of the city so the Citizens of Bhopal do owe it a Debt.

The Majestic Bhojpur

Around Bhopal, there are quite a few religious and historically significant places to see for a casual Tourist, which includes the Sanchi Stupa and the Cave paintings at Bhimbetka which are both UNESCO heritage sites. A lesser known architectural marvel is the Majestic Bhojpur, close to 28km from the city. Bhojpur is a small town having only a handful of houses and the number of citizens may be few. Unlike some other temples in India, it has not faced the brunt of tourism so you may not see too many foreigners here. There are few shops outside the temple which is a saving grace as also the reduced number of beggars and mendicants pestering you.

 

Founded by the legendary Raja Bhoj and named after him, the 1000 year old Bhojpur temple is sometimes compared to the Somnath of Gujarat.  The temple, which is built in Square shape of 66 feet width, houses a unique artifact – the tallest Shiva ling in the country measuring 36 feet from the base and carved out of a single piece of rock.  Constructed entirely of the locally available sandstone, the partly complete structure humbles the mind. The door frame is close to 10 meters high and 5 meters wide. Four gigantic pillars, richly carved, rise to support its dome. The Lingam is set upon a huge platform 21.5 feet square upon three superimposed blocks which represent the divine Trinity of Hindu mythology. At the outside of the temple you may find richly carved idols of Gods and Goddesses adorning the walls

Photography is permitted within though the light conditions pose a challenge in getting some good snaps. The building was under the protection of the Archaeological Survey of India and its representative inside the temple gave us a few insights about it. The lone priest who had been deputed to attend to the devotees, pointed us out to a few inscriptions on the wall which were written in Pali script.

 

Legend has it that the temple was never completed, you could see the ramp used to raise it to dome-level still standing. Some other places of interest close by would be the palace of Raj Bhoj which now lies in ruins as well as an ancient cave referred to as Goddess Parvatis dwelling. Every year, a big fair takes place here with thousands of devotees pouring in. Enroute to Bhimbetka, this is one spot you may definitely not want to miss

The BRANCHED Coconut Tree inside the Sea fort

                    

    

A popular tourism spot around 450km from Bombay, Malwan boasts of beautiful beaches, excellent sea food (the local Malwani cuisine) and Water sports. Being my home town it holds a special place for me, though I have been here only on a couple of occasions. The pull to my native place was more for enjoying Snorkeling and Scuba diving with friends as well as a taste of the local cuisine, also the locals here are extremely hospitable and the cost of bed and boarding is relatively cheap 



Ships moored off the walls



The Entrance

A Bell from ancient times

The lure of water sports pulled us towards a lesser known but attractive destination - the Sea fort of Sindhudurg built by Shivaji, the great Maratha warrior King in 1664. Located in the Arabian sea on an island, it is barely a few kilometers from Malwan

The sea scape around Malwan had threats from enemies such as the Siddis of Murud so to keep them in check, Shivaji selected 'Kurte island' as a strategic location to build this fort

A rusted cannon has seen better days

                                 

The fort was built over a period of 3 years and spreads over 48 acres. It has an amazing 2 mile long zigzagging rampart with 42 bastions, walls which are 30 feet high walls and 12 feet thick, and a hidden main entrance which can be only located by a regular visitor or a local

  There are three sweet water reservoirs in the fort ramparts. Even if the water in the nearby villages dries up in summer, these wells are always full. A hand and foot print of Shivaji is embedded in one section of the fort. There is also a hidden passage which starts in a temple, goes under the island for 3 km, under the sea for 12 km, and from there 12 km to a nearby village. The tunnel was an escape route if the enemy entered the fort, however, the British partially closed this passage after the fort was abandoned.

One of the few houses left inside the fort

                                    

And lastly the Branched Coconut tree - OUR TREE HAS 1 TRUNK DIVIDED INTO 2 TREES. ACTUALLY THESE MAY NOT BE BRANCHES  BUT COULD PROBABLY BE 2 TREES ORIGINATING FROM A SINGLE SOURCE & LOOKS A QUEER Y-SHAPE……..Be sure to visit my home town for a glimpse of this wonder



Snorkelling is catching up amongst the tourists



An ancient Fort in Junagadh

Forts are seen and heard very rarely in the state of Gujarat unlike in Maharashtra where the Sahyadri ranges offer a dime a dozen….so enroute to Dwarka while in Junagadh I was pleasantly surprised to hear about Uparkot. Located at the foothills of Girnar, it was built around 300 BC during the reign of Chandragupta Maurya. It remained in use until the 6th century, when it was abandoned for some 300 years, then rediscovered in 976 CE.

Unlike some of its counterparts in Rajasthan and Gwalior it does not come out to be a majestic fort. However it has its own interesting artifacts and anecdotes to keep a casual traveler clicking.    It was eyed by various invaders and has been under siege for at least 16 times in its history

The entrance to the fort is large and impressive. As you enter the premises you are taken in by a 300 feet deep moat surrounding the fort. There is a mosque at the entrance which was formerly the palace of Queen Ranakdevi. The 140 odd pillars inside give it a solid look.  Just outside the Mosque is a small cemetery housing a small set of Royal graves. We sighted the caretaker of the cemetery sitting morosely in the shadows, with a few peacocks giving him company in the precincts.

Close-by are two large and well maintained cannons named Neelam and Manek, having a colorful history. They were ordered at the instance of the erstwhile ruler Sultan Bahadur Shah who wanted to pacify the Portuguese invaders in Diu. Cast in Cairo, the Turks shipped them for the Sultan around 1538. The enemy was defeated conclusively and the Cannons made their mark in history. The larger of the 2 has an Arabic inscription mentioning its origin and birth details.

The multi pillared Jama Masjid

A man enjoying his siesta in the Mosque

 It also has a set of Buddhist caves considered to be almost 2000 years old. The caves are adorned with decorated pillars, water cisterns, horseshoe shaped windows and meditation rooms. As with its counterparts in Maharashtra such as the Elephanta and Kanheri, you may ponder over how monastic life would have been here in sheer isolation 2000 years back with only nature and wildlife for company.   

Another interesting artifact is the Adi Kadi Vav (Stepwell) .Made of virgin rock, it could not hit water during its construction. The King consulted his priest who informed him that a sacrifice of 2 unmarried females was necessary for getting water. The 2 local sisters Adi and Kadi were put to task and water was found. Colorful bangles are seen hung on a tree near to the well as a token to the sisters.

Some other interesting sights include the reservoir built by Mahabat Khan, the Naugham Kuva with its zigzag staircase and the Dhakka Bari which is a window from which offenders were thrown into a valley.  

A half day visit here is well worth your time. Be sure to also visit the local Sweetmeat shops just outside the fort offering excellent local cuisine

The Caretaker amidst the graves

The Temples of Intrigue -- around Lonar

Daityasudan Temple – Inside the MTDC resort, you may find a large photograph of this temple hanging on a derelict wall. An enquiry about its whereabouts may evoke a cursory reply so typical of all MTDC staff. You can never expect to get a detailed response or a historical perspective about any place from them.  This gem of a temple however is definitely worth a look. Having visited the Ajanta known for its Buddhist architecture and the Ellora with its Shaivite history, I found Daityasudan to be belonging to the latter period of history.

The exact date of its construction is assumed to be somewhere around the 6th Century AD (Ellora being built from the 5th century onwards, I presume there could be some overlap here as this temple had the Chalukya rulers as their patrons). Legend has it that a demon called Lonasur used to reside here along with his sisters and used to harass the locals, who appealed to Lord Vishnu for help. The Lord promptly arrived in his Daityasudan avatar, and freed the villagers from the demons wrath. The Demon was slayed and buried within the crater so the local belief goes,  due to which the water gets its vivid color (more details on the water in my earlier Blog on Lonar)



Khajuraho revisited





Khajuraho some more





Khajuraho again and again



The architecture has an asymmetrical Star shape and some of the carvings on its walls remind you of Khajuraho.  A standing image of Surya in the back of the temple gives a belief that the temple was originally dedicated to the Sun God, though this may not be the case when you observe the interiors.  The inner most sanctum sanctorum has the idol of Lord Vishnu standing atop Lonasur. The orginal idol was constructed of Meteorite material. 
The temple though is in urgent need of repairs and you could see the damage done to some of the carved figurines adorning the temple walls, thankfully though it has been able to protect itself from graffiti mongers who had made the idols inside the crater their targets.  I was told by the locals that the original idol was stolen some time back and has not been recovered since, so considering now there is little left to protect you may not find any Security around its vicinity.   



A damaged idol of Ganesha in need of repairs




the large mound opposite the temple


Scattered broken idols are seen in the temple courtyard, an idol of Lord Ganesha was prominent. An unusual mound of earth was located bang opposite the temple, is there something more the ASI needs to dig into?

The brickwork at the entrance stands out in stark contrast to the intricate stone work of the rest of the temple, this might have been added to the temple as a restoration work for some damage due to an invasion perhaps

The Reclining Maruti Temple - Located a little distance away from the crater is a unique temple dedicated to Lord Hanuman, unique due to the reason that this may be the only place where you find the deity in a reclining pose. Legend has is that when the Meteorite impacted Lonar, a small chunk broke away and landed in this place which has now become the Temple. The shape of the idol may not resemble Lord Hanuman but is venerated for its medicinal value, locals believe the magnetic property of the idol can help get your BP levels in limits. The entire idol is cast in saffron color. The temple precincts belong to some local family which has been preserving this pretty well so you may want to visit this for its uniquness than the devotion

The Temples inside the Crater

Situated at the periphery of the crater are 14 small and big temples dating back to over 1300 years. Built by the Yadav dynasty, almost all of them now lie in absolute ruin and have become the abode of bats and mice, their beauty and majesty a thing of the past.  

As you enter the crater you are saddened by the sight of a lone Buddha statue in a meditation pose, the head is missing and must have been carted away by an antique thief.   The casual attitude towards these historical treasures is noted amongst the locals as well, wherein during my first visit my guide had asked if any of these idols was of interest to me and he could have it delivered to my hotel at a small token fee.

Further down as you descend you are greeted by a Rama temple and a small pond which might have been used for ablutions. The water is derived from a natural spring and is unlike the brackish water inside the crater, though the color of the water is not inviting.  It is believed that Lord Rama had performed the last rites of his father Dashratha over here.  

A lone Nandi Bull with its face damaged is seen facing a battered open temple; the Shiv Ling now stands unattended and devoid of any religious offerings. You could see a similar sight of a majestic Nandi outside another temple, but this time the Shiv Ling is nowhere close-by. A couple of broken down idols are keeping it company outside the temple precincts. Some beautiful images you could dwell upon is that of the Churning of the Ocean by the Gods and Demons and a Damsel enticing a Tiger while her consort is trying to slay it with a spear. The Kamalaja temple is by far the largest and well maintained. Though it is located close by to the pond, the water from the lake never deluges it despite heavy rainfall and the pond water level rising to high levels. It may be the only temple where a Pooja is conducted regularly.



The derelict temple facing a damaged Nandi



It has seen better days



The lone Nandi with no Shiv Ling to pacify him



Considering these temples were built by multiple rulers during different epochs, their asymmetry is notable from their techniques of constructions and the direction in which some of them are facing (some are South faced, some East and one in Westerly direction)

The ASI is doing almost nothing to maintain these treasures and most of the better looking idols have been pilfered away or damaged by the ravages of nature. The temples have become the targets of graffiti mongers who have made their sadistic signatures and remarks on the walls and sculptures. Having visited the crater twice, I could vividly recollect having missed seeing some idols during my second trip (a Shiva Parvati statue was amongst them). As we trudged back to our hotel, it was evident that it was only a matter of time before these treasures faced a losing battle on their way to certain ruin 



An exquisitely carved pillar at the entarnce of the Vishnu temple



A Damsel, a Tiger and the Hunter



Probably the Dome of some Temple




An intricately carved pillar once would have supported a temple



A sad part of the story though is hardly any piece of literature is available regarding this period of architecture and its origins of construction as well as its relation to the more popular Ellora.  



A Puranic scene depicting the churning of the Ocean




This idol was missing during my 2nd trip