Sunday 9 February 2014

An ancient Fort in Junagadh


Forts are seen and heard very rarely in the state of Gujarat unlike in Maharashtra where the Sahyadri ranges offer a dime a dozen….so enroute to Dwarka while in Junagadh I was pleasantly surprised to hear about Uparkot. Located at the foothills of Girnar, it was built around 300 BC during the reign of Chandragupta Maurya. It remained in use until the 6th century, when it was abandoned for some 300 years, then rediscovered in 976 CE.
Unlike some of its counterparts in Rajasthan and Gwalior it does not come out to be a majestic fort. However it has its own interesting artifacts and anecdotes to keep a casual traveler clicking.    It was eyed by various invaders and has been under siege for at least 16 times in its history


The entrance to the fort is large and impressive. As you enter the premises you are taken in by a 300 feet deep moat surrounding the fort. There is a mosque at the entrance which was formerly the palace of Queen Ranakdevi. The 140 odd pillars inside give it a solid look.  Just outside the Mosque is a small cemetery housing a small set of Royal graves. We sighted the caretaker of the cemetery sitting morosely in the shadows, with a few peacocks giving him company in the precincts.



Close-by are two large and well maintained cannons named Neelam and Manek, having a colorful history. They were ordered at the instance of the erstwhile ruler Sultan Bahadur Shah who wanted to pacify the Portuguese invaders in Diu. Cast in Cairo, the Turks shipped them for the Sultan around 1538. The enemy was defeated conclusively and the Cannons made their mark in history. The larger of the 2 has an Arabic inscription mentioning its origin and birth details.

The multi pillared Jama Masjid

A man enjoying his siesta in the Mosque

 It also has a set of Buddhist caves considered to be almost 2000 years old. The caves are adorned with decorated pillars, water cisterns, horseshoe shaped windows and meditation rooms. As with its counterparts in Maharashtra such as the Elephanta and Kanheri, you may ponder over how monastic life would have been here in sheer isolation 2000 years back with only nature and wildlife for company.   
Another interesting artifact is the Adi Kadi Vav (Stepwell) .Made of virgin rock, it could not hit water during its construction. The King consulted his priest who informed him that a sacrifice of 2 unmarried females was necessary for getting water. The 2 local sisters Adi and Kadi were put to task and water was found. Colorful bangles are seen hung on a tree near to the well as a token to the sisters.
Some other interesting sights include the reservoir built by Mahabat Khan, the Naugham Kuva with its zigzag staircase and the Dhakka Bari which is a window from which offenders were thrown into a valley.  
A half day visit here is well worth your time. Be sure to also visit the local Sweetmeat shops just outside the fort offering excellent local cuisine

The Caretaker amidst the graves

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