Lonar – The fall of a Meteor

“Looking up the city square of Aurangabad, a left turn takes you to Ellora and a right turn takes you to Ajanta” remarked my driver as we entered the city

“And if you go straight?” I asked

“Then you fall into the Hole” he remarked

The Hole he was referring to is 2km wide created nearly 50000 years ago during the Pleistocene epoch by a Meteorite as it crashed from Heavens with a dull thud.   And through its impact it created the biggest salt water lake and the 3^rd largest Meteorite crater in the world. So probably our Aurangabad episode may have wiped out a few local Dinosaurs, I pondered to myself as we started on this journey early next morning – for obvious reasons it had a higher priority for me than Ajanta and Ellora 

A 125km long route, poorly built roads and few hotels enroute are a let down by the time you reach here. The plus point being MTDC has a good resort, located on a hillock as it overlooks the Crater and you can spend your evening relaxing with a Beer watching the sun set over the Hole.

A sign board by the GSI (Geological Survey of India) welcomes you as you trudge downwards into the Crater. Mind well that no proper road or steps have been created here so it might be a small risky trek downhill. As we reached the bottom, we were greeted by a cheerful old local who agreed to be our guide. He had been employed in Bombay for a few years and post retirement has settled down here, so on knowing our place of origin he developed a sense of nostalgia.

During a two hour trudge in the Sun, he gave us a good insight on the crater. It is a frequent excursion for Scientists who come here to study and collect samples and just a week before; a small group had come in and collected a load of rock samples for research. The Meteorite is dark green in color, you may find a few sample rocks in the vicinity, and due this coloration the water in the crater has also acquired a dark green tinge. Irony though is this water has a high mineral content so no plant or vegetation can survive in it, though locals do come here for a dip as it has medicinal value and is known to cure diseases. Water in the crater is always full throughout the year. Thankfully there are no shops or establishments either within or near to Lonar so you can move around freely without being hassled 

As we trekked and trudged along, we could sight a number of small temples and statues lying around in derelict condition. The ASI has done little to maintain this place, and considering its historical significance some efforts should have been due for conservation (read my next blog for details on the temples and its artifacts). . It finds mention in ancient scriptures such as the Ain-i-Akbari .There was a salt factory during the era of Emperor Akbar over here. It is an even more delight to be here during monsoon, he said, as the mineral rich soil showcases a huge diversity of its flora and fauna. Some of them we could spot and click…including a bunch of elusive peacocks

It is difficult to travel the entire length of the crater but a trek typically stops at a temple built in the center of the crater from where you return back. As we hiked upwards and finally reached the resort the guide with a shy smile started taking our leave. Not sure how much to offer, I produced a 100 Rupee note which he gladly accepted and departed. The trek was well worth his time and effort I guess…. (to be continued next year)

Akbars Sikandra

Ten days after his 63rd birthday the Mughal Emperor Akbar died in the historic Agra fort. His burial site is in the small town of Sikandra located some 6 miles away.  it is mentioned in history that like much of his predecessors (Humayun, Sher Shah and Tughlaq), he initiated the construction of his mausoleum during his rule. The construction started 3 years prior to his death in 1605 and subsequently his son and successor Jahangir completed the same in the 7^th year of his reign (1613). Jehangir in his chronicles mentions that he was not satisfied with the way the Mausoleum architecture was progressing and made several alterations to it in line with Persian architecture. The exact cost of constructing this edifice may not be known as well and several other facts related to its Architect and Builder are lost in history. 

The complex also holds the tomb of Akbar's wife Mariam, the mother of Jahangir.

The structure is entirely crafted in fine red sandstone. Built in the Indo Saracenic style, it has a blend of Hindu, Islamic, Christian, Buddhist and Jain motifs at par with the religious path chosen by the Emperor.  Beautiful calligraphic inscriptions on white marble are visible as you enter the premises near the gate.  On a huge open lawn, a number of Blackbucks can be seen roaming around.  The Tomb located at the center of the Complex moves away from traditional Islamic architecture in that it has no domed roof, you can find some resemblance to the Char Minar of Hyderabad with 4 huge Sandstone Minarets inlaid with Marble work.

The five storied tomb is approached by a paved path. The Sanctum of the Mausoleum, which is square in shape, is richly decorated with Flowers, Geometric designs and Islamic calligraphy, in a riot of colors. As is typical of such Mausoleums, the actual Tomb of Akbar would be lying one level below the tomb being displayed to the public eye.

During its heydays the mausoleum had a huge bronze gate and the interiors were decorated with ornaments of gold, silver and precious stones.  Most of the precious artifacts are missing now, pillaged over a period of time by marauders, only the Emperor in his grave is a mute testimony to the days of his glory gone by