Chardham 3 – Badrinath

After the tough uphill ascent of Kedarnath in cold and rain, the trip to Badrinath seemed almost like a picnic for us. The vehicle takes you right up to the bustling marketplace which is abuzz with tourists, both local and foreign. You have the option to pick and choose amongst the many accommodations from Budget lodges to Temple stays which is a much welcome break.  
And this could well be regarded as the most commercialized locale in the entire Yatra. There are several small and big shops close by to the temple selling religious trinkets and clothing to match the climate and you could spend some time haggling over a choice curio.



Local Mana women are very friendly and willing to pose for a shutterbug

 Badrinath is revered by the Vaishnavites as herein lies “Vishnu” in his reincarnation as Nara and Narayana, undergoing penance since time immemorial. The colorful temple has a small cupola on top and intricate carvings inside. The Image of the Lord was discovered by the great Shankara in the nearby Alaknanda river. It was initially installed some distance away close to a Hot Spring but then a local king moved it towards it present day temple. Seen from a distance, the gold gilted roof immediately draws your attention.



Large serpentine queues can be a major irritant while seeing the shrine

The number of tourists lining up to see this is huge and you may probably find yourself at the end of a long serpentine queue and a couple of hours wait before you finally get in. The temple guards inside allow you only a cursory glance of the idol before you are jostled and pushed out – as in all other such famed temples in India crowd management will always remain a challenge.

A friendly localite mentioned that in December when it becomes freezing cold, the temple gates are closed and the locals move downhill towards more hospitable terrain. But to maintain the sanctity of the temple, the villagers light a large oil lamp in front of the deity. This lamp is refilled with its oil supply from a huge reservoir which ensures that post winter when the locals arrive back at the temple and the gates of the temple are reopened, the light still continues to be burning brightly  

The entrance to the Temple



Some interesting sights to see in and around the temple are the Swargarohini Peak, the Vyas Cave and Bhims Rock. As mentioned in the great epic Mahabharath, when the 5 Pandavas left their abode post the battle of Kurukshetra to seek heaven, the route they took towards their destination passed by Badrinath. The Swargarohini Peak as per the epic was the gateway to heaven and it was during this climb that they all perished except the eldest brother Yudhishthir and a stray dog who followed them. You can get a glimpse of this snowclad mountain just behind the temple.

Religious ceremonies on the banks of the Alaknanda

Another curiosity here which your guide will definitely like to point out is a gigantic boulder used to ford a River on this route. The locals believe that the mighty Bhim had lifted this Boulder on his massive shoulders to create this pathway.

Bhims Boulder above the river Saraswati

Just close-by lies the Source of the River Saraswati which flows below the boulder. It is visible only here post which it flows underground and then makes it appearance at Allahabad to meet the Ganga and Yamuna a few 1000 kilometers away to form the revered Triveni Sangam.

The river Saraswati

 Just ahead lies the cave of Rishi Ved Vyas, it is mentioned in history that this was the place where he had recited the Mahabharath to Lord Ganesh.

The Vyas Cave

 
There are scores of Hermits in the vicinity, belonging to different sects and photographing them could well become a favorite pastime. An added attraction is the peak of Neelkanth Mahadev. The beauty of this peak is only seen in the wee hours of morning when the first rays of the sun land on it…..and then all of a sudden the snow clad peak achieves a golden hue. The spectacle lasts only a few seconds and then you consider yourself highly privileged to be able to see this in your lifetime. 

The Neelkanth Mahadev at Dawn

For the more adventurous there are numerous treks originating from here, the Dev Tal and Rakshas Tal being a hefty 45 km journey uphill amongst cold white biting snow.

The route to numerous treks and an SBI Branch at every nook and corner

And finally don’t forget to have a cup of tea in a shop nearby which has the unique distinction of being the “Last Tea Shop In India” only other than the one in Ladakh……..so as you leave these hallowed surrounding, cries of “Jai Badri Vishal” remain a memory for a long time  

The Last Tea Shop In India