Wednesday 22 October 2014

Chardham 4 - Kedarnath





 

The remotest locale in the Yatra would be a test of your endurance and physique by the time you are done with it. The uphill climb added to a mild drizzle and biting cold can make it highly uncomfortable for a pilgrim but then you also have some who dare to make it on foot just to prove a point.
 
 
The journey starts from Gaurikund which is 17kms away. Unlike some other sites such as Uttarkashi or Badrinath where you have the option of good accommodations or a buzzing marketplace, this region is relatively barren at both ends of the journey. At the base you have the option of hiring a Horse for the trek or a Senior citizen can choose a palanquin. Rates for both have been fixed by the local villagers and you cannot haggle over it.
 
As you start your journey on the paved path, you encounter various small shrines which have been setup by the villagers. You can take a short break here or on one of the relatively sparse food joints. The path is narrow enough to manage 2 horses, and with a rock face on one side and a valley on the other, you need to be alert throughout the ride.  


 
The horse ride takes close to 2 - 3 hours to reach the top, and by the time we reached at mid noon, there was hardly any strength left for any activity and we spent the rest of the day in our beds. The accommodations here were woeful, a room as wide as the size of your bed and the bathroom which is best avoidable. Food joints are equally pitiable and if you are carrying some of your own food you are better off.


 
 An interesting anecdote was recounted by our guide on the trail. Post the war of Kurukshetra the Pandavs as came here on a pilgrimage to atone for their sins and desirous to see Lord Shiva. At Gaurikund, Lord Shiva disguised himself as a buffalo when he saw them approaching. The he buffalo was noticeable as he appeared different than the others in the crowd and the Pandavas saw through this immediately. Bhim tried to grab the buffaloes tail, which hid its face in a crevice in the earth. The ensuing result was that the face of the buffalo appeared at Pashupatinath in Nepal and the rear in Kedarnath, reason why you may see a peculiar triangular shaped Shivling being worshipped in the temple

 

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