Sunday, 15 December 2013

Aurangzeb’s Taj Mahal


Aurangabad, the city founded by Malik Ambar, is known for the famous rock frescoes of Ajanta and Ellora. It also has a different monument to its credit, a structure equal in appearance to the Taj Mahal at Agra and built with the purpose to rival it.




Following in the footsteps of his father the Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb build this mausoleum for his first wife Rabia-ud-Daurani. Built sometime in 1660, it turned out to be a poor reproduction.  Though not too keen on architecture and fine arts, the Bibi Ka Maqbara turned out be Aurangzebs largest and most famous creation.



Built in Marble which came from the Jaipur mines, it was built by Ata-ullah who was the son of Ustad Ahmad Lahauri, the principal designer of the Taj Mahal. Though it may not have the splendour of a gold filigree or pecious stones embedded in it,  a small excursion to this place enroute to Ajanta or Ellora can bring back memories of Taj for a visitor






Thursday, 12 December 2013

Road Building in Spiti Valley

Start from Khoksar

We had an early morning start from Khoksar – planning to reach inside Spiti valley before evening so that we have some time to relax before commencing on our week long cycling tour. As the bus travels on a rickety road, our driver Sharmaji continues his rambling on the bad infrastructure in the valley.
A few kilometers ahead the road was blocked by a small landslide – we had received news about this yesterday while crossing Rohtang so we decided to stay overnight in Khoksar. Now as we approach the pass there is still an apprehension.  A sudden long line of Vehicles ahead is an indication that things may not have improved. As I get down to explore with Sush, the others prefer to stay in the warmth of the bus. There is a slight drizzle – the weather has remained damp for the past 2 days and people are longing for the Sun to come out.  As we approach the site of the landslide we can see a handful of locals pushing at a huge boulder which is blocking the route. 


But things took a turn for the worst suddenly. The drizzle which had loosened many a huge boulder on the hills, caused an entire hillock to collapse before us. The vehicles which had been parked close-by suddenly had their drivers rushing back to remove them to safety.  And we in turn rushed back to the Bus as Sharmaji maneuvered it to a safe place. And then started an ordeal which lasted from 8am to 6pm.

The offending boulder had been pushed out of the road by the collapsing hill but in its place it had created a huge crater on the road, a seemingly difficult task for us to overcome. A couple of locals went towards Khoksar to check if a JCB could be hired to close out the crater. A small crowd had started gathering to take stock, we had few Indian tourists and a small group from Israel. Nearby there was only a small tourist lodge which could offer comfort but all the rooms were booked and no source of food. And by noon the situation in the bus had worsened – no Food, Bad Weather, no Entertainment and no sign of the JCB. Our guide managed to cook up some trivia from the local lodge which sufficed for a few hours.

The Maggie Lodge


A long queue of vehicles had now built up on both sides of the crater and people were on the verge of panic when a Driver from the other side decided to close things out. Due to some exigency he wanted to reach Manali by evening so he started asking people from both sides to start building the road. The drizzle and cold of the climate was making it difficult to move around but we yet plunged our hands in the icy cold waters to gather and push stones. Slowly and steadily the road began to take shape. Finally after a few chilly hours we managed to build a bouldered path


The Driver who took the initiative

Sharmaji at wheels

And then the driver who had initiated this was given the initial chance to drive his vehicle over the road. It was a tense moment as people pushed and finally we managed to get this vehicle across. There was jubilation on either side for a small victory. Slowly and steadily we started guiding vehicles on either side till the last one was through. And with Sharmaji at wheels we were the last to get across, but then this was still not the end of our troubles.
The Mud Slide in Twilight zone
A few kilometers journey and we found ourselves in the middle of a Mud slide. The thick sludge was making it difficult for the tyres to move and try as we could the vehicle just did not budge. We finally got out and started pushing it in the night, but despite the effort and getting the muck right up to our ankles there was no movement.  As luck would have it there was a JCB just ahead who gave us a helping hand. His initial effort in pulling the vehicle by tying a thick rope around it did not work and after some tries the rope broke. He then went around and gave a big push from behind and we were free again, though the vehicles tail light was damaged in the process.  We finally were on our way a good few hours behind and managed to reach our destination only in the early hours of morning 

The Night journey to Spiti

Thursday, 5 December 2013

The road to Cherrapunjee


Enroute to the Wettest place on Earth, images of a 60km Dry Road journey.....Of sleepy little houses and deserted roads.......few souls in site.....and NO sign of Rain

The start of the journey, early morning from Shillong .. a wide open road welcomes


A rare bird of prey enroute......we consumed one in the village


Weather vanes are sighted occassionally, considering the climate here the need must be felt


 Flowers bloom all along the way


A narrow bridge over a stream... despite the heavy downpour throughout the year the roads have been maintained very well


An Odd sculpture on a farm, not sure whether it doubles up as a Scarecrow?


Quarries abound on either side of the road


 Locals Sighting ..the Khasis are very open and friendly


Transport buses are few so locals have to make the best use...but you do get a good view from up there


Local houses - all wooden and with slanting roofs


The resting place on the hills


Shrines .....or Milestones?


More local houses...this one is up a hill


A riot of colours



Entry to the village, its high noon and you may not find much people around


Signboards in the village




Deserted homes - the owners must be enjoying a Siesta




Views of Mawsynram and a Sacred Forest


 The return journey - fog and dark clouds are a welcome sign of rain






Tuesday, 3 December 2013

Gods Own Trident

Uttarkashi or the Kashi of the North, a picturesque town, is a brief sojourn enroute the Chardham Yatra. It is believed to be the next most pious destination after the Kashi Vishwanath Temple in Benaras. Dedicated to Lord Shiva, it is located on the banks of the River Bhagirathi which runs close to the Temple premises and a dip in the holy waters is only for a brave heart who can bear the chill 



Within the courtyard of the Temple, and to the front of it, is a Shakti Temple dedicated to the Goddess of strength. The shrine houses a most unique artifact that can be imagined - a Trident 2 storied high standing erect for centuries at this very spot, all exposed to the elements of nature. The Alloy from which it is made has prevented it from any environmental deterioration. You may not find a speck of corrosion or rust on it and it reminds one of the Iron Pillar in the Qutub Minar complex.


I enquired with the Temple Priest regarding its Origin and Make. His belief, based on an epic, was that it had been used by the Gods in their fight against Demons. But some believe, as per an inscription on the Trident, that the temple was constructed by King Ganeshwar, whose son built the Trident. 26 feet high, this trident's base measures 8 feet 9 inches, and its top, 18'/2 inches in circumference, it is believed to be 1500 years old
   


The Bhagirathi in full flow