Lunch in Lion Land

 My most vivid memory of Sasan would be the sumptuous food we enjoyed in an eatery just outside the Gir National Park. It turned out to be the highlight of the trip more than the wildlife spotting.

The experience of a Safari here is more akin to visiting a Zoo with large boundaries. Those who have witnessed a “Tiger Safari” in SGNP in Bombay would realize this.  You have the option of traveling in an Open Jeep or a cost effective bus ride. The park has restricted visiting hours so if you are not aware about it you may have to spend a couple of hours idling around at noon as in our case. The Government buses, powered by a Bio Fuel cost you Rs.120 for a 45 minute ride. There are multiple Buses which keep running all the time, so once you buy a Ticket there is not much of a wait..….and spotting a Lion here is as difficult as spotting a stray dog in a by lane in Bombay

The Lions are few but you can spot them easily in the dry open deciduous habitat. The moment our bus used to come anywhere close-by to a lethargic lion, the tourists would scuttle to get the best of that moment from their Shutters. The Lions body language made us realize the poor guys boredom at having to attend to so many tourists. There are plenty of Spotted Deer and Blackbucks around but in all probability the Lions seemed to be getting Packed Meat looking at their lethargy. And we didn’t come anywhere close to sighting a Lion stalk a prey or a family feeding on some carcass or a fight between Adult males over territory or mates as in NAT GEO.

We however sighted some Blackbucks and a Pair of Wild Boars on our way out.

It was already high noon by the time this ordeal ended when we arrived at a local eatery located at the forest periphery. There are several small establishments run by local villagers which offer excellent Gujarati cuisine. They still follow the traditional method of cooking using wood fuel over a brick stove. A Gujarati Lunch (Thali) may cost you Rs.200 and is worth every penny. The “Jai Mataji Hotel” run by Shrikantji and his family was our preference. There is a small farm facing the boundary of the Hotel and the local produce from this was used for preparing the meal

 

Sitting on a Charpoy we could get a view of the meal being prepared. While his wife and daughter were busy at the stove preparing the Rotis and Main course, Shrikantji focused on the Chopping and Cleaning. The meal takes some time to prepare and you could idle away the time checking for local accommodation if you intend to stay the night. Accommodation comes cheap, a large family room may cost you Rs.1000 for the night and there is no restriction on the number of people staying.

After a half hour wait the meal arrived, consisting of Mashed Brinjal, Potato Curry and Pickled Tomatoes with fries, Rotis made of Barley and Wheat, and the local Sweet Dal. A jar of Buttermilk was Complimentary.  For dessert we had bowls of Jaggery dipped in local Ghee. As in traditional Gujarati method of lunching, you can have unlimited servings of everything within the fare. And by the end of it, the richness and flavor makes you feel drowsy and weary  

 

Our driver meanwhile took a break to scour the countryside. You can hire out tracts of Mango orchards here for a year from a Villager for a specific amount, and when the Harvest season starts the Yield can give you handsome returns.

 

Vikramidtyas Ujjain

The city of Temples, Ujjain, has been ruled by several Emperors and multifold Dynasties; from the Mauryan Chandragupta to the Buddhist Ashoka, from a Malwa Sultan to the foreign invader Iltutmish. But the city is remembered most for the Golden rule of Vikramaditya who ruled here from 380AD to 415AD. Also known as Chandragupta II, Vikramaditya started the Hindu Calendar Vikram Samvat. The Ujjain Court during his era was noted for its poets and scholars, and included the celebrated poet Kalidas. Ujjain was at its peak during this age; paved with jewels, architecture, artistry and romance

Ujjain has a great blend of History and Mythology.  From Lord Krishna’s School to Goddess Parvati’ s Shakti Temple, from King Vikramadityas Throne to Black Magic Gods it has it all. And more so it also noted to be the site for one of the 12 revered Jyotirlings – the Mahakaal. . But as the saying goes, you need divine intervention to visit a Jyotirling in a city like this and it may not happen just by chance. In our case the intervention was in the form of a friend’s wedding in nearby Bhopal. We took a couple of days off from work to visit the Temple city. The journey from Bhopal is close to 150km and takes around 3 hours. You can hire an Indica Cab from Bhopal Bus Stand for Rs.2000. With some haggling we were able to reduce the fare by Rs.300 with a commitment taken from the Cabbie that he would pay all Taxes enroute and there would be no other add-on passenger taken. The journey was smooth and uneventful, enroute if you have some spare time you could visit the Chamunda Devi Temples in Dewas.

The Hotels in Ujjain are a letdown; there are no rated hotels and typical Lodge type accommodations with Double Beds costs anywhere from Rs.500 to Rs.1000. The Hoteliers though are very strict about the Checkout times and again they typically do not serve food. We chose a Lodge nearby the Mahakaal Temple, as we were planning to visit the Deity early morning.  As you stroll in the market place you can sight an occasional 3 tyred Auto, a sight seldom seen in a Metro city where they have become a thing of the past. Like in Benaras, almost every prominent household here has its own Temple. So you need a really good guide to Guide you on your temple tour. The market place near Mahakaal Temple has several Auto drivers who offer this Service. A short tour (6 Temples) will cost you Rs.250 and a longer one (10 Temples) will be charged Rs.350/ so we opted for the latter.  Our cheerful driver, despite being a Muslim, was very well versed with all the technical knowhow on the Temples and their History. We spent a good 2 hours with him.

First on tour was the Sandipani Ashram where Krishna, Sudama and Balaram were educated. An interesting and unique feature of this Temple is its Nandi. Whereas in other Temples you may find it in sitting posture, this is the only Temple where it is in a standing pose, due to the sanctity this place holds. The Idols within and adorning the walls of the Temple are extremely old. But then the entire city of Ujjain has several such treasures scattered everywhere and with hardly anyone offering a second glance, an Antique dealer might be tempted to gather a bagful and scoot away. There was a Pani-Puri vendor at the Ashrams entrance offering 6 different flavours for Rs.10 and we enjoyed a mouthful.  

Next stop was the Temple dedicated to the Planet Mars (Mangal Gruh). Another feather in Ujjians cap, this is the only such temple in India. This was a relatively new temple constructed over the ruins of the Original. The Priest was a friendly sort who allowed us to photograph even in the Sanctum. The Shipra river flows just behind it and you could have the chance of a holy dip. There is a bigger version of this Temple located close-by with restricted entry (only those suffering from the adverse effects of the Planet are allowed to enter and conduct remedial oblations in the presence of a Priest)  

Third in line was the SiddhaVat (Eternal Banyan Tree) – the holy Banyan tree planted by Goddess Parvati on the Banks of the Shipra river. The Tree is considered to be immortal and regarded as a Kalpavriksha. During an invasion here in days gone by, the Mughal invaders cut down the Tree drastically and its roots were covered with iron sheets to prevent its growth. The Tree managed to overcome the Iron and became green again.  Emperor Ashokas son Mahendra and daughter Sanghamitra are said to have paid obeisance here before starting on their religious tour of promoting Buddhism across the Country. So also King Vikramaditya is said to have done penance here to gain victory over the slippery Betal. The Temple precincts are again adorned with some very old and rare sculptures and you could see glimpses of Hindu mythology in some of them.

Next in line was the much awaited monument to King Vikramidtyas throne known as “Sinhasan Battisi”. The shrine dedicated to the king is rather small and has a single Priest in attendance. You would rather miss it altogether was it not for the Guide who guides you on its significance. It was proclaimed that the throne had mystical powers and anyone sitting on it was empowered with immense ability to do justice. Later, before the advent of the Muslim invaders, the throne disappeared and was never seen again.  On checking with the Priest regarding the whereabouts of the Throne, he mentioned that it was carried to the Heavens by the Gods.  Looking at the shrine, you realize the neglect the city has towards its legendary ruler during whose reign the city had reached its pinnacle

Next stop was the KaalBhairav, the fierce manifestation of Shiva.  It is considered to be the prime deity of the Aghora and Kapalika sect, an unorthodox Tantric cult with black magic overtones. The vehicle of the Lord is a black dog and you will find its life-size idol facing the Lord outside the Temple, on same lines as a Nandi faces a Shivaling. Liquor is offered to the Lord as a part of the worship. Several shops outside the Temple offer a variety of local and foreign liquor. On entering the Temple you pass on the Offering to the Priest who pours some of it in a small bowl and holds it near the mouth of the Idol…..and in a moment you can actually see the liquid disappearing inside the Lord. The remainder of the Offering in the Bottle can be carried back by the devotee. This Temple was erected by King Bhadrasen and the temple exhibits beautiful Malwa style of architecture. Another unique Temple just adjacent to it is the Pataal Bhairav. The Underground (Pataal) Cave like structure has a small Opening through which you have to crawl on all fours to see the Shivling down inside. As you exit the main Temple, you can be accosted by a bunch of Monkeys at the entrance. Feeding them is a favorite pastime and you can purchase a bunch of green grams from the local vendors at the gate   

  

Our next destinations were two small temples, enroute the Ghats – the Gadhkalika and the Chintaman Ganesh Temple in the marketplace. The great poet Kalidas had obtained his literary skills though his ardent devotion of this deity. The present temple stands in the same site where an older Temple stood. During 7th century, Emperor Harshavardhana modernized the Temple. Subsequently the Maratha rulers of Gwalior rebuilt this holy shrine to its former glory, so you can see their architectural influence in the idols adorning the Temple walls. Digging held near the temple premises unearthed bricks, a part of a plinth and sculptures from various periods. The Ganesh Temple is located in the Marketplace close to Mahakaal. Its idol is supposed to be 'Swayambhu' (self-manifested). The two wives of Lord Ganesha, Riddhi and Siddhi are placed on the either side of the Lord.  The majestic image of Lord Ganesh is truly awe inspiring

Our last destination was the Shakti Peeth Harsiddhi. Said to be the deity of King Vikramaditya, it is mentioned in Hindu mythology that Devi Sati’s “Elbow” fell here. The Temple Courtyard flaunts 2 large Towers with 1001 Lamps, almost 3 storied high. Every day before dusk a team of 4 designated persons fill up Oil in these lamps. The process is arduous and risky but is performed with precision and not a single lamp is missed out. This takes around Rs.8000/- worth of Oil and each person is paid Rs300 for his daily routine.  

Yet another unique feature of the temple is the Sri Yantra, or nine triangles that represent nine names of Goddess Durga. Also enshrined here is the famous dark vermilion image of Annapurna, the Goddess of Nourishment, seated next to Mahasaraswati, the Goddess of Wisdom and Knowledge.  The images painted inside the Walls and Ceiling of the Temple are definitely worth a look and we found ourselves lost in admiring the intricacy of these figurines.

Other than the Beggars and Sadhus, a common sight in the marketplace is the Tattooists. For a nominal fare they can make wonderful sketches on your arms if you can bear the pain. Business is good and you may find several Tourists approaching them for a prick. One thing I observed here was the religious tolerance of the local populace. There could be hardly a place in the Country where a Muslim Auto driver Guides you on the religious significance of a Hindu shrine, so also in the market place you may find a Muslim trader selling literature on Hindu religion.  So our Temple city did leave us bewildered at the end of the day, but somewhere you get the feeling that the locals, in their religious fervor, have forgotten their Vikramaditya